Product Overview: Rubber Stamps

Rather than a product review, I’m writing an overview regarding the use of rubber stamps with polymer clay. I started my artistic journey eight years ago with a single book and a rubber stamp store. I married into a large family, and I got the bright idea to make greeting cards myself to “save money.” *snort* Eight years and many, many stamps later (no, I’m not going to say how many I have), I am incorporating my love of stamping with my newest love—polymer clay.

So, what stamps are the best for polymer clay? Well, all of them, of course! :-) However, there are some things to consider when you’re buying images.

Mounted vs. Unmounted

The first consideration is whether to use mounted or unmounted rubber stamps. While there are considerably more images available mounted, unmounted stamps are much more versatile:

  • You can run (thinner) unmounted stamps through the pasta machine with your clay
  • You can bend and peel the unmounted stamp off the clay, making it easier to remove when impressing into the clay
  • You can use a roller to impress the clay much more easily than with mounted stamps
  • Unmounted stamps, on average, are half the cost of mounted
  • Unmounted stamps are easier to store and transport
  • There are some techniques that require the use of unmounted stamps (e.g. Sutton Slice)

Now, if you have to have an image that’s mounted on a wood block, you can easily remove the stamp from its mount. Either microwave the stamp for about 10 seconds and peel the rubber off the mount, or use Un-Do to remove the stamp from the cushion. Use Goo-Gone to remove any residual adhesive. Voila! Unmounted stamp! :-)

What Unmounted Stamps Do I Like?

First, I like medium- to deep-etched rubber stamp. What this means is that the stamp rubber is fairly thick, and the recesses between the lines of the image are fairly deep. This enables a deep impression of the stamp into your polymer clay; in the case of techniques like the Sutton Slice or some of Donna Kato’s surface design and impression techniques, it makes the technique easier to accomplish.

Second, I like a fairly large “background” image. Rubber stamps come in all sizes, but stamp companies have created images specifically to cover an area the size of a regular stamped greeting card (4 ¼” x 5 ½” – ¼ of an 8 ½” x 11” sheet). These background images make it quick and easy to apply a pattern or image over a large area. They also make excellent texture stamps for clay.

Third, I like pattern images. I use fine “picture” images for clay when these images will be stamped ONTO versus stamped INTO the clay. I like using the patterned image (dots, squares, swirls, florals, vines, squiggles, etc.) to create depth and texture on my piece.

What Brands of Rubber Stamps Do I Like?

What don’t I like is more like it! However, there are certain stamps that I continue to go back to for my clay. Clearsnap and Polyform/Sculpey make stamp sheets expressly for use with polymer clay, as does Donna Kato and Lisa Pavelka. I just got some great large background stamps from Stamp Camp that are great and very deeply etched. JudiKins makes some fabulous background images, and I’ve unmounted quite a few in my quest for perfect polymer clay. Hero Arts also has some great images, but unfortunately, Hero Arts is NOT an Angel company.

What’s an Angel Company?

An Angel company is a rubber stamp manufacturer that allows you to use their stamps to create items for sale. Each company has a separate Angel policy, so if you’re going to use an image in your art for sale, you need to check the company’s policy. For instance, Clearsnap is an Angel company, but only “barely” so. Their images are supposed to be for personal use, but they do allow their images to be hand stamped to make one-of-a-kind items (no mechanical reproduction) for sale. Hero Arts is not an Angel company—you cannot use their stamps to create items for sale. JudiKins is Angel, but you need to give image credit/copyright when you do use their images for items for sale. Other companies give you free reign to use their images. If in doubt, check. Rubberstampinglinks.com has a page where the Angel policies for many companies are posted, but always check the stamp company’s web site to see if that policy has changed.

What Do I Do with Stamps?

There are many ways to use stamps. Here are 10 to get you started:

  1. Texture. Stamp in to the clay to create a texture. Highlight that texture using mica powders, acrylic paints, etc.
  2. Molds. Stamp into some scrap clay, bake it, and use it as a mold. This creates a raised surface of the stamped image in clay.
  3. Images. Use the image of the stamp either as a background or focal image of your piece. You can also stamp over surface designs to create additional patterning and texture. Use either a permanent ink (e.g. Staz-On) or a heat-set ink (Crafters, Brilliance, pigment inks). You can also use other media to stamp with, such as acrylic paint and even metallic powders.
  4. Faux Cloisonné. Use the stamp to create your barriers and image for a faux cloisonné using liquid polymer clay, mica powders and other coloring agents.
  5. Faux Brocade. Donna Kato has a lovely technique where she stamps into clay, fills the recesses with acrylic paint, and highlights the raised areas with a contrasting color of acrylic paint. She lets it dry, then runs it through a pasta machine. It looks like brocade fabric. SO very cool! Donna is coming out with a new book this summer, The Art of Polymer Clay – Creative Surface Effects that will detail this and other great techniques.
  6. Sutton Slice. Lisa Pavelka’s friend, Pete (?) Sutton, came up with a technique in which you embed clay in the recesses of a rubber stamp. You shave off any clay that has stuck to the image/top surface of the stamp. You then lay a sheet of contrasting clay on top, press to adhere the clay in the recesses to the “backing” layer. You peel the stamp off the clay, and voila—the pattern made in the recesses are now raised. Here’s an example using this technique.
  7. Mica Shift. Impress your metallic clay with a rubber stamp, then take shallow slices off the surface to remove any raised areas. Run the resulting sheet through a pasta machine, and you have lovely “ghost” images in the clay—but the clay is smooth!
  8. Image Transfer. Debbie Anderson makes lovely faux porcelain beads by stamping on plain copy paper, coloring the image with waxy colored pencils (e.g. Prismacolor), and directly transferring the image to clay by placing the image face-down onto raw clay.
  9. Backfilling. You can stamp into clay, and fill the recesses with a contrasting color of clay. Bake, then sand smooth.
  10. Mokume Gane. Create a stacked layers of contrasting colors of clay, press a stamp (and other texture tools, if you desire) into the clay, then shave off the top layers to get a cool, multi-colored image. Use slices of the mokume gane to decorate a sheet of clay and to make beads or other objects.

This is just a basic primer on what stamps can do for you in your artwork. There’s so much more you can do…just use your imagination!

 

 

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Book Review: Polymer Pizzazz: 27 Great Polymer Clay Projects

5 Stars Rating: 5 stars (out of 5)

Buy from AmazonBuy Polymer Pizzaz at Amazon.com

Polymer Pizzaz is a new publication from Bead & Button magazine that compiles 27 (not 25 as the picture posted on Amazon shows) projects that were published throughout the years in Beat & Button magazine. For those of you who are long-time subscribers of the magazine, you already have these projects in your back issues and can easily access them from your collection. However, those who don’t have access to these back issues are lucky to have this compilation of excellent projects from superb artists.

If you’re familiar with Bead & Button magazine, you know that the articles are well written, the project instructions are highly detailed, and the photography is professional and beautiful. The wonderful thing about this book is that even though some of the articles may be older, the unique techniques detailed in the projects and resulting pieces of jewelry are timeless. For instance, Mike Buesseler has moved on from polymer clay to other arts, but his impact on the creation of metallic Skinner blends and his locket construction live on.

The book’s projects are placed into four categories: Beads, Canes and Chains, Pendants and Faux Techniques. Each of the categories has four to nine projects created by nationally recognized polymer clay artists including Donna Kato, Nan Roche, Sarah Shriver, ChristieFriesen, Deborah Anderson, Grant Diffendaffer, Patricia Kimle, Dotty McMillan and Karen and Ann Mitchell. There is a brief introduction to clays, tools and techniques in the front of the book, but it’s clear that this book focuses on projects for intermediate clayers–not for novices. However, the projects are infinitely approachable and the results are achievable. I took Dotty McMillan’s “Painterly Polymer” painted lentil bead and combined it with Mike Buesseler’s locket construction techniques to create a lovely locket. I still have wonderful left-over painted polymer for use with another project thanks to Dotty’s clear instructions and really simple but effective technique.

Polymer Clay Locket

I am going on vacation soon, and I think I’ll bring this book with me for inspiration. Every time I look at it, I see more that I can apply to my own work–and that’s one of my hallmarks for a great polymer clay book!

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Product Review: Atlas Pasta Drive Motor

Pasta Drive

Four Stars Rating: 4 stars (out of 5)

After several years as a slave of my hand-cranked

pasta machine (and sufferer of sore shoulders), I decided to get a pasta machine motor. A Christmas gift certificate helped make the purchase a much easier decision, but I felt that with all the claying I do, it would be worth the investment regardless of the cost.

I researched prices and found that Polymer Clay Express had the most reasonable deal ($80, as opposed to around $100 on other sites), so I placed my order for my Pasta Drive along with a nifty little accessory–a foot pedal ($18) similar to a sewing machine pedal. I’d be able to turn the machine on and off without using my hands–a nice feature when you’re working with a large or long piece of clay.

I receved the motor in good order. However, I found out that the older Atlas machine that I have didn’t have the requisite holes drilled around the crank case to attach the motor! Fortunately, I had another machine that had the drilled plate, so I did a little switcheroo and had a machine ready to motorize.

The machine has a crank shaft similar to the end of the crank handle plus two little catch bolts that secure and hold the motor to the machine. Ten seconds of fiddling and fitting (well, ten minutes and ten seconds, if you add the time it took to find and replace the plate), and I had a motor ready to go. I plugged it into my foot pedal, set my rollers on a #1 setting and I was ready to go. I had some clay flattened to get through the rollers–I know that if you put in too much clay at a time, you can really stress the engine–and I pressed down on the pedal to get the motor running.

WOW! LOUD LOUD LOUD! The motor is extremely loud. Almost ear-plug loud. I put the slab of clay through the machine, and the machine got louder and a bit slower until the clay was through. I folded and put the clay through again and went through normal conditioning, lickety-split. It was really nice to condition the clay in this manner, but I have to say that the noise could and will get very irritating in a short amount of time. However, the good thing about a foot pedal is that you don’t have to have the machine constantly on. You can turn it off and on easily and have your hands free at all times.

I took my slab of clay through the various settings of the pasta machine and found the performance of the motor to be just fine. However, I began to smell a bit of burning, and I immediately stopped the machine.

The nice thing about the polymer clay community is that there are a lot of people willing to help you with questions or problems. In order to find out what’s normal with this motor, I went to the Polymer Clay People Yahoo Group and asked people what was normal regarding noise, the burning smell and longevity of the motor. In no time at all, I had my answer:

- Yes, the noise level is normal. The slowing of the motor as it’s working is normal. Just don’t try to cram a bunch of clay through the machine; you should only put a sheet through that’s double or 3x the thickness of the setting at MOST.

- Yes, the burning smell is normal. Sometimes the motor burns off some of the oil used to lubricate the motor during manufacturing. The burning smell will subside.

- Yes, the motor lasts for a long time. People have quoted years of use with no end in sight.

These key pieces of information made me much more comfortable with my purchase. As we all know, when we’re unfamiliar with something, it’s always nice to hear that others have had the same experiences and the experiences are normal. That’s one of the reasons I’ve started this blog.

So, the Pasta Drive gets 4 stars out of 5. The noise kicked it down a notch. :-) I’m looking forward to less soreness in my shoulders and many more days of clay.

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Product Review: Makin’s Clay Professional Ultimate Clay Machine

1 Star 1 star (out of 5)

Suggested Retail Price: $50 – $60

Makin’s® Clay is on version 2 of the Ultimate Clay Machine. Unfortunately, their 2nd try solves one problem and creates another.

In April 2006, Makin’s Clay stopped production of its Ultimate Clay Machine. This new machine initially showed real promise. It was the only commercial “pasta” machine that touted non-stick rollers, wider rolling area (around 7″), and 9 thickness settings. No other machine had the same unique features.

It’s unfortunate that these unique features have caused great headaches for the Makin’s people. The way that pasta machines…er…clay machines work is that clay is rolled between two rollers. Below the rollers, “scrapers” keep the clay from continuing round and round the rollers–they scrape the clay off the rollers and the clay comes extrudes out below. The scraper blades are made of metal and are fairly sharp, and they tend to touch the rollers to ensure that material doesn’t continue to stick on the rollers.

This core design was troublesome for the 1st Makin’s machine. When the scraper blades touched the non-stick coated rollers, they scraped grooves into the non-stick coating at the points of contact. And when you rolled your clay through, those light grooves translated into grooves and texture onto your clay. The grooves were minor, but you could see them clearly on the rollers, and lightly on the clay.

This grooving happened to me on the very first use of the original machine. I contacted the vendor who sold me the machine, and she refunded my money. Walnut Hollow, the US distributor of the Makin’s Machine (the machine is manufactured by Hong-Kong based Sino Harvest Limited), picked up the machine via FedEx at their cost.

I thought this was the end of it, but Walnut Hollow mistakenly sent me the version 2 machine a few weeks ago. Being the curious sort that I am, I decided to test the machine. First, I read the instructions, and cleaned the machine as advised. I then took some black Kato Polyclay that I conditioned in my Atlas machine, and ran it through the #1 setting of the Makin’s Machine. I immediately noticed a scraping across the top surface of the clay–as if I had scraped a wide object across the clay and marred the surface. I folded the clay and ran it through #1 a couple of times and noticed the same scraping. This was a bad sign.

At #2, there was still scraping. At #3, more still. At #4, I had a piece of clay that was rippled on the top, with fairly deep ripples but no tearing. This rippling got worse as I set the machine thinner. This wasn’t going well.

I cleaned the machine and tried with some unconditioned clay–maybe my clay was too soft. I took some unconditioned black Kato Polyclay and flattened it with my acrylic roller. I put it through a #1 and saw the top scraping. I conditioned it on #1, folding and rolling as usual. Still some marring. And when it was getting conditioned and as I rolled it through successively thinner settings, the same rippling occurred. I also tried with some softer clay, some metallic clay, etc. The result was the same.

I turned the machine over and found the culprit–they had replaced the metal scrapers with plastic, and it was apparent that the polymer clay was sticking to or scraping against the plastic. The friction from this plastic on plastic is causing the surface marring at #1 and the rippling at #4 and beyond. HOWEVER, and this is a big HOWEVER, not everyone that has been using the new machine has experienced the same issues as I have. BUT some others have.

I contacted Walnut Hollow regarding the error and regarding the issues with the clay, and they once again sent FedEx to pick up the machine. They also sent me a technical sheet regarding use of the machine. The thing to note is this. Makin’s clearly states, “The Ultimate Clay Machine™ works best with Makin’s ® Clay. Results may vary if machine is used with brands of clay other than Makin’s Clay. Because we have no control over the manufacturing and distribution process of clays other than the Makin’s ® brand (including but not limited to ingredients; formula; nor storage, shipping or handling methods), we cannot guarantee the quality or consistency of results you may experience using the machine with other clay brands. Your results may vary depending on brand of clay used. The information on this technical sheet is presented in good faith, but no warranty is given, nor results guaranteed.

The net of it? Well, my old Atlas was abused through some very rough handling by the USPS when I sent it to and from my vacation spot. I was hoping to replace it with the Makin’s machine, but given my experience with 2 poor designs, I’m going back to the Atlas. The Atlas 180 has the wider (7″) rolling surface and 9 thickness settings. All it doesn’t have is the non-stick rollers. Given that Makin’s is suggesting the use of cornstarch, deli sheets or waxed paper in case of sticking when rolling thin sheets–the things we do with the regular steel rollers without a non-stick coating–and given that the prices of the Atlas 180 and the Makin’s machines are relatively the same, there is no advantage, and some risk, in purchasing the Makin’s machine for use with anything other than Makin’s Clay.

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Book Review: Polymer Clay–Creative Traditions

5 Stars Rating: 5 stars (out of 5)

belcher.jpgBuy From Amazon

Books have been my main source of instruction and inspiration for polymer clay. I learn well from many forms of instruction, and books give me the opportunity to try things at my own pace–without distraction.

There have been many books published on polymer clay (I’ll be writing about some of them through this blog), and while most have something positive to offer, there are a few stand-out publications. “Polymer Clay: Creative Traditions” by Judy Belcher is one of these stand-outs.

You’ve probably seen Judy on HGTV’s Carol Duvall Show. She’s an incredibly talented artist with an eye for color and style. With this book, she applies her unique style and techniques used in other art forms (other creative traditions, as the book is titled) to polymer clay:

  • Glass: Lampwork, mosaics, fused/slumped glass
  • Metal: Mokume gane, enameling
  • Fiber: Ikat fabric, Bargello, Kente cloth, mudcloth, batik, quilting
  • Painting/Drawing Styles: Georgia O’Keeffe, Gustav Klimt, M.C. Escher, Georges Seurat, Jackson Pollock
  • Stone, Bone and Wood: Chatoyant stone techniques, bone simulations, wood simulations, intarsia
  • Sculpture and Ceramics: Sculpture, Ceramics (e.g. Raku), printed decoration

There are 21 technique demonstrations that range in difficulty from “beginner” to “intermediate” clay skills. My favorite is the two-color testellation, which Judy also demonstrated on a Carol Duvall Show appearance. The demos are filled with step-by-step color photographs–a must for the more advanced techniques. The book is filled with examples of both the original art form as well as clay pieces that mimic or adapt the original technique.

What sets this book apart? It is both inspirational, with a huge gallery of beautiful art in each section, as well as instructional, with detailed instructions and photographs of each piece. While there are gallery items for each technique demonstration, the focus is on understanding the technique and how it can be applied–not on creating a specific project. This may turn some beginning clayers off, but what I like about this approach is that it gives you ideas to use within your own artwork–a jumping ON point for you to enable new design techniques to energize you and spur your creativity. This book is eye candy, it’s fuel for the creative soul, and it’s one that I have read over and over, each time gaining some new insight to infuse into my work.

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